Tiscali (Sardinia)

The destination for our next day’s adventure was a bronze-age settlement in a big limestone cave called Tiscali.

To get there we had to navigate around several closed roads and drive along some improbable dirt tracks in our rental car.  Then we had to hike up to an enormous cave at the top of a very steep limestone cliff.

It was great adventure and the weather was warm and dry.  We saw lots of wild flowers and even managed to stop on the way home for gelato and espresso!

Orgosolo (Sardinia)

The next day we made a much longer drive to visit the town of Orgosolo.  This town is famous for its murals which have been painted ever since the 1960’s.

Many of the murals have an anti-war sentiment, and they are both colorful and creative. They are all over the town and can be seen best by simply wandering around at random amongst the old buildings of this mountain town.

At the end of the day we stopped for gelato and espresso, and enjoyed watching the world go by.

Gola di Gorropu (Sardinia)

After a week of hiking in Sardinia we still had another week to explore the island.  We started out with a trip to the Gola di Gorropu, which is a natural limestone gorge to the north-west of where we had been hiking.  

The drive to the gorge was breathtaking with many steep mountain passes and narrow roads, and the last few miles required us to hike down to the gorge by foot.  The water level was quite high so in places we had to wade along the path in the gorge and the water was very, very cold!

On our way home we stopped at the town of Urzulei where we wandered around for a few hours.  The mountain town had some great old buildings and a few impressive murals of life in the hinterland of Sardinia.

An old shepherds hut

Approaching the gorge from above

In the gorge

Icy cold water

Time to wade

A home in Urzulei

 
Murals in Urzulei


A weekend adventure

Last weekend we enjoyed a weekend together in southern New Hampshire.  On Saturday we visited the town of Peterborough and looked around, and in the evening we went to the ‘Capitol Center for the Arts’ in Concord to see John Prine in concert.  It has been several years since we saw him perform and we were not disappointed.  He played many of his classic tunes and also a selection from his new album.  For a man in his seventies he puts on a great concert and he is still very sharp-whitted and humorous.

On Sunday were drove another 40 minutes north to Winslow State Park where we were able to check-off another of the “52 With A  View” peaks.  Mount Kearsage is an easy walk of only about 1.5 miles each way, but the views from the top are spectacular.  We arrived before it got too hot and before the crowds arrived.  We were back in Connecticut in time for tea and were able to pick gooseberries before dinner.

In Peterborough
Lunch outside at a local diner

In Concord for the concert

Mount Kearsage trails

View from the top

A beautiful day for a hike

Z enjoying the view

Z on the trail

Sardinia – a scramble to the top of Pedra Longa

Earlier in the week we had seen the pinnacle of Pedra Longa, and on our last day with our guide Michele we scrambled to the top to enjoy the unique viewpoint that it offered.  The sun shone and the seas were blue, and all was well with the world!

Then, to finish off our week with Michele, Alberto, Lory, and Elaina, we went out for lunch at a local beachside cafe.  We enjoyed telling stories about our adventures in Sardinia and we dined on some excellent local pizza and beer.

The pinnacle of Pedra Longa

On the way up…

A nice scramble up an exposed ridge
High above the blue sea
At the top
Back in town with the group to celebrate

Sardinia – the end of the Selvaggio Blu Extreme

The weather on Day-8 was even better than the day before, and we were able to travel by boat to the trailhead because the seas were much calmer.  On the  way we saw lots of impressive limestone cliffs and a rare waterfall, and we were dropped off on a beautiful beach to start the day’s hike.

The hike started with a steep climb up, a traverse along narrow ledges, followed by some more climbing, and more traversing high above the ocean. We saw a wild boar (no one got a photo) and lots of goats.

To finish the day we rappelled over an overhanging cliff back down to a secluded beach with clear blue water.  The sun shone and we enjoyed relaxing on the beach before being picked up by the boat and ferried back to town.

Once we were back in town we celebrated our trip with few beers down by the harbor.

Cliffs seen from the boat

The path up from the beach

Traversing along the ledges
 A narrow squeeze 

More ledges…

….and more traversing
Preparing to rappel to the sea
On the way down
At the beach
Back at the harbor
Enjoying a few beers at the harbor

Sardinia – the scrambling and rappelling continue

The next day dawned much like the previous few days.  By now we knew that the best weather was in the morning and the rain would arrive in the afternoon.  We headed out early and started with an ascent of a peak via fantastic a limestone pavement and cliff formations.  Again, we utilized the precarious looking wooden steps and ladders built by shepherds hundreds of year before our arrival.

From the summit we descended by a series of rappels over impressive overhangs.  One of these ended up in a huge bramble patch and we were all nursing scratched legs by the end of the day.   Finally, we hiked down to the coast via a rough path that gave us views of “Pedra Longa” a free standing pinnacle just off the coast.

At the summit

Looking down at the sea

Sheri on the trail

A 60-meter rappel in free space

Our guide shows us how it is done!

More rappelling

Views of Pedra Longa

Comparing bramble scratches 

Sardinia – back on the trail

The next day we headed back to the coast (by Landrover) and picked up the Selvaggio Blu Extreme trail.  There were patches of blue sky, but also lots of clouds swirling around us.

Today’s route involved rappelling (abseiling) down the cliff face to reach a series of ledges which we then scrambled and hiked along.  This included climbing down an ancient shepherd’s ladder made from an old tree trunk.  After passing though a couple of natural stone arches we reached a series of caves down by the sea.  We then traversed along rock ledges just above the crashing waves to finish our day’s adventure.

It was a great day and the rain held off until we were hiking back up to the Landrover from the coast. But that didn’t matter because we had dry clothes to change into and a warm bed to sleep in.

Preparing to descend to the bottom of the cliffs
Our descent begins
Nearly back on the ground

Down-climbing an ancient shepherd ladder

Arriving at the caves

The rugged coastline

Moving from one cave to another…

And another…

And another….

Natural stone arches on the trail

Views along the way

Almost down to sea level…

A traverse above the waves

Finally we reach the sea!

Sardinia – more rain…time to change our plans

The next day we awoke to more rain.  Whilst Michele made some more phone calls we ate a fantastic homemade breakfast of fresh baked bread, local salami, honey, and freshly-made goats milk cheese.  And strong coffee too!

The poor weather was predicted to last for a few more days, so a change of plans was needed.  Our guide managed to find us some indoor accommodation for the rest of the week.  We would use this as our home base and then make day trips to explore the Selvaggio Blue route.  We could get wet during the daytime and have a place to dry-off and get warm in the evenings.

The rest of the day was spent relocating to our new accommodations, drying out, and getting ready for the remainder of the week’s hiking.

Departing from the shepherd’s house

Interior lampshade

Sheltering from the rain
Ready to depart from the shepherd’s house

Our guide (Michele) and Barbara (our new host)

Barbara’s home-made pastries

Checking the weather

Preparing lunch with produce from Barbara’s garden